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Grand Degustazione 2017, La Morra

The degustazione took place last Sunday in the town of La Morra, one of the eleven Barolo communities in Provincia di Cuneo.

We normally attend the degustazione and this year was no exception.  The Barolo presented was from the 2013 vintage which was not a memorable one to say the least.

We estimate at least 10% of the Barolo offerings that should have been left at home to rest.   Hopefully, the 2014 vintage next year will be better.

As our habit, we made appointments with some of the presenters to taste their offerings in private tastings in their respective cantinas.  This year, however, we decided to choose the last producer to visit from the wine that was offered at this year's tasting.  We visited Enzo Boglietti, Silvio Grasso, Cascina Ballarin and Saglietti.

We will give you the results over the next week or so.  We were quite pleased with the wines that were offered by the producers in their facilities.  We got to taste some of the 2017 Dolcetto that had just started its fermentation at one of the producers.  More about this when we write about our visit to his facilities.

Saglietti, La Morra

As mentioned above, we chose Saglietti for our Tuesday morning visit based solely on the wines he offered at the La Morra degustazione.

This is a difficult place to find as the area he is in is on none of the maps nor navigators that we use.  We had asked for directions from a friend but you can find signs that will lead you to the cantina.

When we arrived, he was cleaning the hazelnuts that had been picked the day before with his father and son.  This year is not a good year for hazelnuts (we got nothing off of our trees).

We were escorted to the tasting room by Flavio and his wife, Paola.   Before getting started on the bottled wines, Flavio took us to the barrel rooms where we tasted some of his wines that are still resting, waiting for the proper time to bottle.  We were also given the opportunity to taste the 2017 Dolcetto which was just starting the fermentation process.  What we tasted was grape juice with no alcohol.  We are not fans of Dolcetto but the raw grapes after being crushed and before the fermentation had progressed provided a new light on this popular wine in Piemonte.  We tasted the 2014 base Barolo (a very big wine for a base Barolo), the 2014 Cerequio and three other Barolos from the 2015 and 2016 vintages.

Back in the tasting room, the first Barolo poured was the 2009 Cerequio.  We had never tasted a Barolo from this cru.  It is quite interesting and we are very interested to see what Flavio and Paola do with these grapes.  The 2009 Cerequio has an alcohol level of 14% and was opened the day before.  At first, the wine seemed to be over the hill, giving off a nose that was not conducive to a good glass of Barolo but after one hour, it had come around.  In the meantime, he had opened another bottle for us.  There is still the hint of the Marsala but it quickly disappeared.  We believe that this wine needs at least five years of aging before drinking.  Euro 27 a bottle, purchased for our cellar.

The second Barolo offered was the 2006 Brunate.  It had been opened about one hour.  Both the Brunate and the Cerequio crus are adjacent to the cantina.  14% alcohol, the 2006 Brunate is a spectacular wine now but we believe it has a few more years in the cellar that would not hurt it.  Euro 30 a bottle, purchased for our cellar.

Last was the 2011 Brunate.  Opened for the degustazione in La Morra two days previously.  The mouth was like a piece of candy, not a glass of Barolo.  This is not something that would be considered to be a defect but it was what it was.  The nose was quite light for a wine this young open two days.  Euro 25 a bottle.

27 August 2018  Because we believed the wines presented by Flavio and Paola were very good, we tried to make an appointment to return to their cantina to again taste, this time from the bottle, the 2014 wines.  Neither our emails nor phone calls were responded to.  We have been unable to contact Flavio so we have to conclude that they are no longer in business.

14 April 2019  Since we have no guidance from the producer, we have started to drink the offerings from Saglietti.  The first we tried was the 2013 Brunate.  We served it with Risotto with radicchio with Natalya;s pyrogi with fish.  It stood up quite well to the combination.  We would recommend that if you have this, you plan on drinking it soon.

16 June 2019  We wanted to try one of the older Barolos that we purchased from them so opened a bottle of the 2006 Brunate.  It was served with the risotto with radicchio since we had luck with the first bottle of Brunate we opened.  The wine changed dramatically during the first 15 minutes it was open.  We suggest that you open it 20 minutes prior to serving it.  The wine complimented the risotto as did the 2013.

20 October 2019  A bottle of our 2006 Brunate Barolo from this producer was opened for lunch today.  It was accompanied by zucca soup, sauteed turkey breast and a salad of beans and beets.  We noticed that the nose and the mouth had off flavours.  We suggest that if you have this wine, it be opened as soon as the opportunity is available.

26 November 2019  After our lunch in October with the 2006 Brunate, we decided to open the last bottle of the 2006 Brunate in our cellar.  It was served with a Tex-Mex dish, chili con chicken (a substitute for the beef).  While not as off as the last bottle, we again strongly suggest that you open any bottles of this wine that you might have.

1 October 2022  Today, it was my turn in the kitchen.  I made Shrimp fried Rice.  Before my schooling in cooking, my grandmothers were my teachers.  When I moved to San Diego, I took a class in Chinese cooking.  The teacher taught me how to use chopsticks and some very good Chinese dishes.  The Shrimp fried Rice I made is not the one she taught me (it was a long time ago) but it came out very good.  We served our last bottle of the 2009 Cerequio Barolo with lunch.  It was not really a good match to the Rice but we needed to drink the wine as we thought it was on its way to be not drinkable.  It was quite good but at the end of the meal, the wine was almost nothing in taste.  If you have it, we strongly suggest that you try a bottle to see if it the way we saw it. It is too bad that there is no more from this producer.  They have disappeared. 

Enzo Boglietti, La Morra

After the Grand Degustazione yesterday, our first visit of the day was Azienda Agricola Enzo Boglietti.  We had met them last year at the degustazione and after reviewing their brochure, decided that we should visit them.

They took us through their offerings starting with the 2016 Langhe Nebbiolo.  It had been bottled about two weeks ago and was quite disjointed, or as we like to call it "in pieces".  It would be unfair to them and the wine for us to form an opinion on the wine so if they have it available next year, we will write about it them.  Euro 9 per bottle.

What they call "Buio" was next.  It was from 2015 and is 80% Nebbiolo and 20% Barbera.  It was a very interesting combination that we feel needs 3-4 years to come around to what should be a very good wine.  We were told that this blend was very popular during the 1990's and they were going to see how it was received here in 2017.  We estimate 3-4 years in the cellar should make it ready to drink.  Euro 16 per bottle.  Purchased for our cellar.

They they proceeded to open their series of 2013 Barolos, all of which were opened for us.  The first was from the vineyard Boiolo.  We are familiar with this vineyard having had 2006 and 2008 Barolos from Bosco who makes wines from that vineyard.  Boglietti's 2013 Boiolo was quite acidic.  The fruit was evident but there was little indication of tannins.  We estimate that it would take 3-4 years to come around.  Euro 23 a bottle.

The second 2013 Barolo was Fossati.  It had a light nose that did not tell us it was Barolo.  However, after about five minutes open, the nose had become evident.  We estimate a minimum of 5 years before opening.  Euro 33 a bottle.

The next was the 2013 Arione.  It had a big Barolo nose, both the acids and tannins were quite evident.  It obviously is in the legendary 3 pieces.  Arione has great fruit for a young wine.  Let it rest for at least five years.  Euro 39 per bottle.  Purchased for our cellar.

The fourth was the 2013 Casa Nere.  The nose is there but light as is the mouth.  It, however, has a high level of tannins.  We estimate at least four years to come around.  Euro 39 a bottle.

The last was the 2013 Brunate.  This is a very balanced wine for a 2013.  The fruit is good blending well with a light tannin structure.  Let it rest for two or three years before trying.  Euro 39 per bottle.

28 February 2021 Because we are having a lot of trouble finding something that is ready to drink, we decided to open a bottle of the 2015 Buio, the blend of Nebbiolo and Barbera from this producer.  We had concluded that it needed 3-4 years before it was ready to drink but as I said, we are becoming desperate.  As usual, the wine is not ready to drink.  If we told you that the top was acid, the middle fruit and the bottom tannins, you would think, probably, that we had fallen off the wagon.  But, that is what we thought, even with a fairly open mouth glass and at least an hour to drink the wine with Natalya's Thai soup and a pirogi made from our biological chicken, bio potatoes and onion.  Regretfully, we have one bottle left and if the La Morra tasting ever occurs again, we will go to the producer and get six bottles that will reside, with the one we have left, for at least three more years.

09 October 2021 We opened another bottle of the 2013 Arione Barolo for lunch today.  Menu was a salad with sedano bianco cuore (white heart of celery), pioppino mushrooms from Monalfungo, bio lemon juice and fresh ground black pepper.  Natalya also made angliotti with white chicken, burrata and pistachio nuts.  The wine needs another two years before we will open another bottle but you can taste what will be enjoyed very much in the future.

 29 October 2023  We opened a bottle of Enzo Boglietti Arione 2013 for a Sunday dinner.  We were quite disappointed, not about the wine, but the fact that the wine is not ready to drink.  And, I really mean it is not ready.  After two hours open, we started to get the mouth and the nose.  Both are very good.  So, we put the other bottle we have for another two years.  Patience, Vittorio!!